Knicks · OT: Should I be worried about what I did here? (page 2)

SupremeCommander wrote:

Allanfan20 wrote:

SupremeCommander wrote:My advice is always to go to your local credit union and get prequalified. Don't even let the dealership know that you are pre-qualified. Negotiate the best price you can get. Then when you meet what the finance guy tell them that you are pre-qualified and you intend on signing up with the credit union unless they can beat the price and terms. Sometimes these guys get lazy with price when they think they can rob you on financing. This might surprise some of you but I am a pain in the ass to negotiate with

I suck at negotiating. I just walk out when it gets annoying.

I used to suck at it... Then I realized it is just talking to people and asking for stuff

That’s a good way of looking at it.

I came super close to leasing a 2019 honda accord sport. I chickened out. I am going to sleep on it.

The key to this is knowing the market and the demand for the car. Supply and demand. If the cars are moving your likely not going to to get a great deal. Go on line and see what inventory they have. Some colors/packages sell better than others. See how long its been on the lot. Then scour for incentives that the factory can provide. That helps the dealership move cars and still generate a profit. You an also bluff them into disclosing incentives by suggesting they exist and eventually they will outline it. Then you can use that to negotiate with other dealers but to be far try to go back to those that were honest and open.
I shop across states and find there are differences. What you ultimately negotiations is their profit and they are enttitled to one if they have a product you want, when you want it, and have to pay people as well.
Once you know all this you can negotiate fairly. You will no doubt earn the respect by doing it and not being a dick as well.

I don’t buy new anymore. I buy 3 year old cars with about 30k miles on them. I dont buy extended warranties either. I did help my daughter buy a Mazda last year and negotiated in this manner. I then Called up the closest dealer last and armed with a lot of info. MY line was i was ready to buy a car today and only wanted to speak to the GM. He wanted me to come in, I said I would once we had a car to ID, test and was equipped. Basically he had new inventory coming in three weeks later and I said I was in no hurry. Cars came in, I had an agreement on price worked out over the phone and we finished the deal in person.

Few years back I worked with an Audi dealership whom I bought new from. They were 5 hours away. Had the cars shipped to me. Never went to the dealer. they did the paperwork via fed ex and fax. GM was a friend of mine and he’d take the cars home and test drive to ensure all was good. They were under warranty so I was not worried either. Those were very sweet deals.

Got to know your market. Leasing is easy if you take time to understand the formula and not just the payment. Factor and interest rate is the key. Leased for years. Not any more.
The German Cars I buy depreciate bad because they are expensive to fix. I’m ok with that because I really enjoy those cars and the price drop compensates for it.

Allanfan20 wrote:I came super close to leasing a 2019 honda accord sport. I chickened out. I am going to sleep on it.

as long as your number is good, that's a wonderful car. The new models are turbos (I used to drive a VW GTI and my god was that fun, favorite car I've ever owned because of the turbos) and my buddy that has one loves the technology. I drive an 2012 as a financial decision. Those cars don't break. I think I would lease a new model over buy because there are lots of computer parts and you need to go to the dealership for repairs like you would a BMW or Mercedes. So again if your number is good I'd go for it... you will enjoy the ride

Nice cars those accords. Warranty is a financial decision. Problem with new car loans are they stretch beyond warranty so exposure to making payments and repairs over lap by years now. With kids out of the house and done with college our cash flow is much easier now and we good to make repairs. Of Japanese reliability is terrific so in some aspects if reliability is good don't sweat it.

Leases are great in many situations naturally depending on mileage. Starndard no money down was 15k miles and depending on the model the factors could be very favorable. Now its 8-10k mileage a year and a few grand down.

Buying clean cars after they come off lease with about 30k miles on them is not a bad deal. Usually good financing incentives, refurb the car with brakes and tires, etc, and extend warranty 2 more years. Take the savings and put it to repairs if they occur. All individual perspective, not a single right or wrong.

New turbos not as much fun as the old ones as the power band is very smooth. Not a bad thing mind you, just that they behave better in normal conditions. Old Saabs were blast as well. Right now we have two turbo cars in the driveway, one has twin turbo on a straight 6. A lot of power but turbo barely noticeable. Amazing what they can get out of 1.5 liter engines now. Good choice Allanfan. You getting that blue color?

Allanfan20 wrote:

SupremeCommander wrote:My advice is always to go to your local credit union and get prequalified. Don't even let the dealership know that you are pre-qualified. Negotiate the best price you can get. Then when you meet what the finance guy tell them that you are pre-qualified and you intend on signing up with the credit union unless they can beat the price and terms. Sometimes these guys get lazy with price when they think they can rob you on financing. This might surprise some of you but I am a pain in the ass to negotiate with

I suck at negotiating. I just walk out when it gets annoying.

I have been searching for a car fo 2 months, and it has been the most frustrating thing ever..I usually go to a auction with about 8k, but im not in a position to do that,and since my credit is above 700 i figure why not just go to a dealer..

I joined a Credit union-their rate 3.9%
capital One, wells fargo rate- 7- 10%

It's better when you go in there with an approved loan already, so now you negotiating the sticker price not the total price...and remember 80% of customers only want to know the monthly payment

I was a credit analysis for 2 yrs at wells fargo, so they couldn't fool me or try to rob me..If i approved a loan for 5% the dealer will tell you 8%, that's a few thousand in his pocket...

You should try PRIVATE SELLERS to,

Honda' s are good reliable cars. Soundproofing has been an issue in the past. Dont know about the newer models. If you can wait a little, Id check out the 2020 Sonata. Will be available in the fall. Good looking ride, with a good warranty.

Its good if you get a direct offer from the dealership in the mail.
I get one recently from Nissan stating that Nissan will pay 7 month remaining lease up to 2K and drop 4K from sticker MSRP.
I made a copy of the letter and took it with me to this dealer.
Also I checked the inventory on dealership site before driving there and have it opened on my phone.
I had 4 month lease left on Cadillac ATS which I get with 42K MSRP and 440 monthly lease with 1K down and 12K per in 2016
As soon as I came the sales person took the letter from me and went to manager.
Then the letter get lost (I keep copy handy in my pocket zo) and we start talking the car 2019 Maxima.
He get all the info for my current lease and called Cadillac to get pay-off info ($650 I wanted to avoid)
Knowing my current car MSRP and all he first brought me the lowest Maxima model for test drive.
I drive it and said it cool man but I need car matching my, not some empty frame for 34K MSRP.
he was visibly upset and start pushing me some other a bit more loaded car (38K MSRP) lying right away that it is 43K.
I showed him the phone with car he is pushing with 38K MSRP listed in the inventory on their WEB site... He run to manager...
Came back, apologize, they cannot find a key for this car and I do not like white color anyways... LOL
So after back and force he brought another car - Maxima SR - 47K MSRP.
Ok. I said it looks good. But what about numbers.
He went to manager and... 530/2.8k down/12K miles.
I said I want 440/1k/12K as I have now with Cadillac.. And showed him the copy of the offer letter he lost - 4K of MSRP...
Dude was all white-faced and went to manager.
Came back with 470/1k/12k/first payment(470)/registration fee ($360)
I asked to cut registration in half so they did and I said - Deal.
Not the end of the story.
They kept we in 5 hours (1 hour after shop officially closing) and tried to fool me around on convincing me to return car to Cadillac myself (and pay $650).
Sorry no...
And then financial guy wanted to charge me first payment as the part of upfront cache and then have all payment paid anyway.
I had all negotiated term written down on the paper and he had to tear up the lease contract and reprint.
So I get the car which is way better (ATS was total junk) for just $30-ish more per month.
As Porzingins said "Stay Woke".

arkrud wrote:Its good if you get a direct offer from the dealership in the mail.
I get one recently from Nissan stating that Nissan will pay 7 month remaining lease up to 2K and drop 4K from sticker MSRP.
I made a copy of the letter and took it with me to this dealer.
Also I checked the inventory on dealership site before driving there and have it opened on my phone.
I had 4 month lease left on Cadillac ATS which I get with 42K MSRP and 440 monthly lease with 1K down and 12K per in 2016
As soon as I came the sales person took the letter from me and went to manager.
Then the letter get lost (I keep copy handy in my pocket zo) and we start talking the car 2019 Maxima.
He get all the info for my current lease and called Cadillac to get pay-off info ($650 I wanted to avoid)
Knowing my current car MSRP and all he first brought me the lowest Maxima model for test drive.
I drive it and said it cool man but I need car matching my, not some empty frame for 34K MSRP.
he was visibly upset and start pushing me some other a bit more loaded car (38K MSRP) lying right away that it is 43K.
I showed him the phone with car he is pushing with 38K MSRP listed in the inventory on their WEB site... He run to manager...
Came back, apologize, they cannot find a key for this car and I do not like white color anyways... LOL
So after back and force he brought another car - Maxima SR - 47K MSRP.
Ok. I said it looks good. But what about numbers.
He went to manager and... 530/2.8k down/12K miles.
I said I want 440/1k/12K as I have now with Cadillac.. And showed him the copy of the offer letter he lost - 4K of MSRP...
Dude was all white-faced and went to manager.
Came back with 470/1k/12k/first payment(470)/registration fee ($360)
I asked to cut registration in half so they did and I said - Deal.
Not the end of the story.
They kept we in 5 hours (1 hour after shop officially closing) and tried to fool me around on convincing me to return car to Cadillac myself (and pay $650).
Sorry no...
And then financial guy wanted to charge me first payment as the part of upfront cache and then have all payment paid anyway.
I had all negotiated term written down on the paper and he had to tear up the lease contract and reprint.
So I get the car which is way better (ATS was total junk) for just $30-ish more per month.
As Porzingins said "Stay Woke".

Most important aspect is to get a deal your happy with and being upfront with the parameters. You had enough "upfront contract" with your letter and understanding why you were there. That's important.

How is the new Maxima?

Knicks1248, you go to a dealer auction? I never had been to one. Are you shopping for a particular car or a great deal?
That interest rate spread is really quite big.

Nalod wrote:

arkrud wrote:Its good if you get a direct offer from the dealership in the mail.
I get one recently from Nissan stating that Nissan will pay 7 month remaining lease up to 2K and drop 4K from sticker MSRP.
I made a copy of the letter and took it with me to this dealer.
Also I checked the inventory on dealership site before driving there and have it opened on my phone.
I had 4 month lease left on Cadillac ATS which I get with 42K MSRP and 440 monthly lease with 1K down and 12K per in 2016
As soon as I came the sales person took the letter from me and went to manager.
Then the letter get lost (I keep copy handy in my pocket zo) and we start talking the car 2019 Maxima.
He get all the info for my current lease and called Cadillac to get pay-off info ($650 I wanted to avoid)
Knowing my current car MSRP and all he first brought me the lowest Maxima model for test drive.
I drive it and said it cool man but I need car matching my, not some empty frame for 34K MSRP.
he was visibly upset and start pushing me some other a bit more loaded car (38K MSRP) lying right away that it is 43K.
I showed him the phone with car he is pushing with 38K MSRP listed in the inventory on their WEB site... He run to manager...
Came back, apologize, they cannot find a key for this car and I do not like white color anyways... LOL
So after back and force he brought another car - Maxima SR - 47K MSRP.
Ok. I said it looks good. But what about numbers.
He went to manager and... 530/2.8k down/12K miles.
I said I want 440/1k/12K as I have now with Cadillac.. And showed him the copy of the offer letter he lost - 4K of MSRP...
Dude was all white-faced and went to manager.
Came back with 470/1k/12k/first payment(470)/registration fee ($360)
I asked to cut registration in half so they did and I said - Deal.
Not the end of the story.
They kept we in 5 hours (1 hour after shop officially closing) and tried to fool me around on convincing me to return car to Cadillac myself (and pay $650).
Sorry no...
And then financial guy wanted to charge me first payment as the part of upfront cache and then have all payment paid anyway.
I had all negotiated term written down on the paper and he had to tear up the lease contract and reprint.
So I get the car which is way better (ATS was total junk) for just $30-ish more per month.
As Porzingins said "Stay Woke".

Most important aspect is to get a deal your happy with and being upfront with the parameters. You had enough "upfront contract" with your letter and understanding why you were there. That's important.

How is the new Maxima?

Knicks1248, you go to a dealer auction? I never had been to one. Are you shopping for a particular car or a great deal?
That interest rate spread is really quite big.

The Maxima is really great inside-out.
All new safety features possible. A lot of power and sport fill.
Looks really aggressive. My is in black so looks outright scary.
The integrated navigation sucks but support Android link and Apple too.
Not much room at the back so it is not family car by any stretch.
Your really need to drive SR or Premium.
Great car.

arkrud wrote:

Nalod wrote:

arkrud wrote:Its good if you get a direct offer from the dealership in the mail.
I get one recently from Nissan stating that Nissan will pay 7 month remaining lease up to 2K and drop 4K from sticker MSRP.
I made a copy of the letter and took it with me to this dealer.
Also I checked the inventory on dealership site before driving there and have it opened on my phone.
I had 4 month lease left on Cadillac ATS which I get with 42K MSRP and 440 monthly lease with 1K down and 12K per in 2016
As soon as I came the sales person took the letter from me and went to manager.
Then the letter get lost (I keep copy handy in my pocket zo) and we start talking the car 2019 Maxima.
He get all the info for my current lease and called Cadillac to get pay-off info ($650 I wanted to avoid)
Knowing my current car MSRP and all he first brought me the lowest Maxima model for test drive.
I drive it and said it cool man but I need car matching my, not some empty frame for 34K MSRP.
he was visibly upset and start pushing me some other a bit more loaded car (38K MSRP) lying right away that it is 43K.
I showed him the phone with car he is pushing with 38K MSRP listed in the inventory on their WEB site... He run to manager...
Came back, apologize, they cannot find a key for this car and I do not like white color anyways... LOL
So after back and force he brought another car - Maxima SR - 47K MSRP.
Ok. I said it looks good. But what about numbers.
He went to manager and... 530/2.8k down/12K miles.
I said I want 440/1k/12K as I have now with Cadillac.. And showed him the copy of the offer letter he lost - 4K of MSRP...
Dude was all white-faced and went to manager.
Came back with 470/1k/12k/first payment(470)/registration fee ($360)
I asked to cut registration in half so they did and I said - Deal.
Not the end of the story.
They kept we in 5 hours (1 hour after shop officially closing) and tried to fool me around on convincing me to return car to Cadillac myself (and pay $650).
Sorry no...
And then financial guy wanted to charge me first payment as the part of upfront cache and then have all payment paid anyway.
I had all negotiated term written down on the paper and he had to tear up the lease contract and reprint.
So I get the car which is way better (ATS was total junk) for just $30-ish more per month.
As Porzingins said "Stay Woke".

Most important aspect is to get a deal your happy with and being upfront with the parameters. You had enough "upfront contract" with your letter and understanding why you were there. That's important.

How is the new Maxima?

Knicks1248, you go to a dealer auction? I never had been to one. Are you shopping for a particular car or a great deal?
That interest rate spread is really quite big.

The Maxima is really great inside-out.
All new safety features possible. A lot of power and sport fill.
Looks really aggressive. My is in black so looks outright scary.
The integrated navigation sucks but support Android link and Apple too.
Not much room at the back so it is not family car by any stretch.
Your really need to drive SR or Premium.
Great car.

My first car was an 82' Maxima. Loved that car. It was the first "talking car". Would tell you when the door was open, or gas was running low. Fortunately the 82s had an off switch. Maximas have been known for having some of the best V6 engines on the market. Moving in a little while, wont need my pickup, will miss the V-8. If I can get a good deal, going to lease the Genesis G70, with the 3.3 liter V6.